Shoe care guide (advanced)
Introduction:
Do you have a passion for leather dress shoes and want to give them the best care possible? Then this advanced guide will help you on the way. In 5 easy to understand we will explain to you how to fully take care of your leather shoes. Eventhough, this is a more advanced version of our beginner guide, it is still very doable if you do not have any experience shining shoes.
- Safely remove old polish and dirt from your shoes.
- Why proper conditioning is important and how to make leather shine again.
- Refresh the color with shoe cream and repair minor damage.
- Apply a beautiful shine while simultaneously protecting against water and dirt.
- Creating a true mirror shines with the right techniques and the appropriate wax.
Introduction:
Do you have a passion for leather dress shoes and want to give them the best care possible? Then this advanced guide will help you on the way. In 5 easy to understand we will explain to you how to fully take care of your leather shoes. Eventhough, this is a more advanced version of our beginner guide, it is still very doable if you do not have any experience shining shoes.
- Safely remove old polish and dirt from your shoes.
- Why proper conditioning is important and how to make leather shine again.
- Refresh the color with shoe cream and repair minor damage.
- Apply a beautiful shine while simultaneously protecting against water and dirt.
- Creating a true mirror shines with the right techniques and the appropriate wax.

Want to take your shoe care routine to the next level? Our Advanced Shoe Care Set includes exactly the products featured in our Advanced Shoe Care Guide, so you can follow every step from deep cleaning to mirror shine with confidence. You’ll get:
- Saphir Médaille d’Or Renomat (removes old wax layers and deep dirt)
- Saphir Médaille d’Or Renovateur (conditions and restores suppleness)
- Saphir Médaille d’Or Pommadier shoe cream (recolours, nourishes, and adds base protection)
- Saphir Médaille d’Or Pâte de Luxe wax (builds shine and protects edges and soles)
- Saphir Médaille d’Or Mirror Gloss (creates a high-gloss mirror finish)
- The Shoe Care Shop polishing brushes and a The Shoe Care Shop soft cloth
Follow the 5 steps from the guide and bring your shoes to a professional finish, with deep colour, long-lasting shine, and strong protection.
Before/after
Leather is a forgiving material to maintain.
After a little practice, these three steps will have your shoes looking sharp again.
After
Before
Deep cleaning & removing old shoe polish
Leather shoes should ideally be thoroughly cleaned and stripped of old shoe polish once a year. Old shoe polish dries out over time and therefore appears dull. Additionally, dirt is often trapped between layers of shoe polish, preventing the shoes from shining as they once did. If your shoes are fairly new, you can skip this step in most cases.
Start by removing dirt and sand by giving the shoes a quick brush. Then apply Saphir Renomat to a cotton cloth and test on an inconspicuous area to ensure that the Renomat will give the desired result. For a slightly milder cleaning product you can use Saphir Médaille d'Or Reno Cleaner instead. Then rub the entire shoe. You'll immediately see that the shoe polish releases and adheres to the cloth. When finished, remove all remaining Renomat from the shoes with a dry cotton cloth or brush. Preferably, let the shoes sit for approximately 30 minutes after cleaning so that all Renomat evaporates. We recommend using Renomat once a year or for stains.
Your shoes are now completely rid of old (synthetic) layers of shoe polish. Now it's time to properly nourish the leather.

Tip!
With Saphir Renomat, you determine how thoroughly you clean your shoes. A light wipe removes the top layers, and longer rubbing cleans down to the factory finish. Not sure? A light wipe is often enough.
Products for this step
Conditioning & Mild cleaning
Apply Saphir Médaille d'Or Renovateur with a soft cloth, spreading the conditioner evenly over the shoe (avoid the soles). Let the Renovateur soak into the leather for about five minutes, then lightly brush off the excess with a horsehair brush. This brushing is only to remove leftover product, so there’s no need to polish just yet.
Since Renovateur offers little protection on its own, it should always be followed up by a layer of Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier cream, and ideally also Pâte de Luxe shoe wax (see steps 3 and 4).
At this stage, your shoes have been gently cleaned and nourished. In step 2 we’ll go into more detail on shining, recolouring, and giving your shoes a basic level of protection.

Tip!
Most Saphir Médaille d'Or conditioners, like Renovateur or Lotion, both clean and nourish the leather in one step. If you want to strip away old layers of polish completely, reach for Saphir Renomat.
Products for this step
Shining and recolouring
Apply some Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier shoe cream by using an applicator cloth or brush to evenly distribute the cream over the shoes. Allow the cream to be absorbed by the leather for about five minutes. Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier cream will nourish, recolour, protect and give a soft shine to your leather shoes. Brush your shoes with a horsehair brush to create a nice shine.
Tip: Depending on the damages or fading of the colour of your shoes you can apply+shine Pommadier cream up to three times to get better coverage. Check our Saphir colour guide to pick the best matching colour cream/wax for your shoes.
After finishing with this step your shoes will be recoloured and have a nice matte shine. At the third and final step we will discuss how you can waterproof your shoes and give them a high shine finish.

Tip!
Pommadier shoe cream is available in both neutral (colourless) and coloured options. The best choice depends on your shoes and their condition. Check out our Saphir colour guide to find the shade that matches your shoes best and for more detailed colour advice.
Products for this step
Waterproofing and high gloss finish
Use Saphir Médaille d'Or Pate de Luxe to create a waterproofing high gloss finish on your shoes. Begin by applying a very thin layer of Saphir Medaille d'Or Pate de Luxe shoe wax using a cloth. Be sure to spread the wax over the shoes as thin as possible. Afterwards, shine your shoes with preferably a cotton cloth (or a brush) to shine up the wax polish on the shoes. For new shoes or shoes that haven't been shined recently it can be beneficial to repeat this step once more after you are done.
If your shoes have leather soles, treat the edges with Pâte de Luxe wax in the sole colour to cover scuffs and add shine. For extra waterproofing, apply Saphir Médaille d'Or Sole Guard directly to the bottom of the soles. It protects the leather against moisture, keeps it flexible, and helps prevent the soles from wearing out too quickly.

Tip!
For the best shine, use a cotton cloth and buff the wax in quick, circular motions. This method brings out the deepest gloss, but it does take a little more time. If you prefer speed over perfection, a polishing brush is a great alternative. It removes excess wax quickly and still leaves your shoes looking sharp and well-finished.
Mirror shine
Last, but not least you can mirror shine your shoes using a combination of Saphir Médaille d'Or Pate de Luxe and Saphir Médaille d'Or Mirror Gloss. This way you create a mirror-like finish on the surface of the leather. The smoother your wax layers, the more shine you get. A good rule to follow is to only mirror shine the toe cap and heels of your shoes. This way, you prevent the wax from cracking while wearing them.
Layers 1-3: Start building up a foundation with Mirror Gloss. This hard wax will more easily fill up the pores and structure of the leather creating a smooth surface.
Layers 3-6: The next 3 layers will be Pate de Luxe. Apply an extremely small amount each time and buff using a drop of water or our high shine water.

Tip!
Use a drop of water while buffing out the wax to extract extra shine from your shoe wax. Our water dispenser and High Shine water help you apply exactly the right amount.
Products for this step
You might also be interested in these guides

Suede and nubuck guide
Freshen up your suede and nubuck shoes with this quick and easy maintenance guide.

Advanced shoe shine guide
Want to lift your shoe shine to the next level? Be sure to give our advanced shoe shine guide a read.

Sneaker cleaning
Make your sneakers as good as new with this sneaker cleaning guide.

Shoe Trees
Keep your shoes in shape with a pair of well made wooden shoe trees.




































